Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136
To the person who just bought the 97 JX. They are known for their engine light coming on and off frequently (especially 2.5), although this is sometimes due to a bad sensor, many times it is for no real reason at all (or none that will have any negative effects). When you change the oil, be sure to use a Chrysler Mopar filter, and not a generic brand. Mopar filters have a valve inside that does not restrict oil pressure, allowing it to get up to its operating level faster. As the engine gets older, generic brand filters cause wear. I had one that I used a generic brand filter on. The car used to make a "ticking" sound (lifter tick). This got worse with time. I changed to a Mopar filter after hearing about the valve built into their filters from a tech in our shop, and the ticking stopped completely as it had slightly better pressure. I also began to run Duralube in mine a while after that, which really helped, it ran smoothly, but now sounds new. I change it up every 4k or so. It's kind of pricey ($15+ a bottle), but is worth every penny. Duralube doesn't have teflon in it, teflon is bad for an engine over time because it puts tiny scores in the cylinder walls. Put it in my 86 Caravan also, it had close to 300k on it, ran like it had less that half that after. I put it in everything now. Also make sure to use the power top at least once a month, to keep everything working right. Use white lithium grease on the moving components. Don't slam the doors on these, especially with the windows rolled down, very hard on the trim and clips that keep them from giggling. If your door glass does rattle when half way down, roll it in a position until it stops. Keep it here if you're driving over bumpy road for extended periods. When they rattle, they can actually rattle themselves even looser in their tracks. Just baby them, and be carefull when you close the doors. There is no sense fixing them because you need to tear the whole door apart. Best of luck, they're a great car when you treat them right.
I recently purchased a 1997 Sebring Convertible JXI with 67,000 miles. Looks wise it is in mint condition. It was only after the purchase that I stumbled upon this site. If I'd have discovered this forum earlier, I probably would not have purchased the car. I'm having the same problem with odometer and a tach working about half the time. Two weeks after the purchase, I had to replace the radiator, and convertible-top seam near the rear window is coming apart. It's a second car and I just plan to drive it in the summer. I live in Washington state and we get plenty of rain. I don't have a garage, so I keep waiting to go out and find it full of water. So far, so good, I'll keep my fingers crossed. It is a beautiful car and the sound system is great... wish me luck.. thanks for all the input...
I was looking at buying a 98 and read this entire site. Got a little nervous and then remembered why you would be reading the postings? Just a thought for other folks, you wouldn't be reading this forum if you DON'T have any problems. Call me an optimist, but can be a bit deceiving as there are probably many folks out there who haven't had anything go wrong (but usual wear and tear) and as one posting pointed out - cars break. Just some food for thought. But I've found many comments useful and things to watch out for as I search for an economical convertible.
I've had a 1997 Sebring JXI for about 4 years now. It has been a great car and I've also experienced the flooding problems, the tachometer/odometer problem and the ignition key problem.
Like said before, the flooding problem was fixed because of the clogged drainage holes.
The Instrument panel was a burnt out resistor. (I took my car for the dealership for that problem, they wanted to charge me 400, until I complained to the manager repeatedly that the instrument panel on my 87 Camaro has never stopped working and was a far less reliable car)
The key getting stuck in the ignition was solved with spraying WD40 in the ignition every once in a while.
My car is up there in miles, close to 140,000 miles now and it still runs great EXCEPT...
My car likes to randomly just stall for no reason. The check engine light flashes, but doesn't stay on and mechanics can't figure out the problem. I've tried all sorts of stuff with my fuel system, new fuel filter, cleaned injectors, cleaned gas tank, all sorts of stuff, but the problem persists. I was wondering if anybody else experienced the issue and if they were ever able to fix it.
May 13th, 2007.
Hey, me too! I will post on this site if the "stalling" problem has been fixed this time! I have had it in many times, so I had the mechanic "hook" the car up to the computer, and drive it around for a week! Wish me luck, he says it is fixed and I pick it up on Wednesday!
I am having the stalling problem, too. It usually occurs at stop lights; however, my car stalled two nights ago when I pulled out of a parking lot and would not start again until the next morning. Any ideas as to what is wrong?
I've had a 1997 JXI convertible for the past six years. It's mostly garaged in bad weather, but I did notice sloshing sounds in the driver's side rear after rain storms. I looked around for drain holes, but didn't find any and the problem wasn't serious so I never did anything about it.
Recently we've had some heavy rains and the Sebring has been outside my office all day during three of four serious storms. Yesterday I discovered about a half inch of water on the driver's side floor front and rear and some moisture on the passenger side. I parked the car on a steep slope (nose up) and sure enough, there was a steady dribble of water at the back of the rocker panel.
I'll follow the above suggestions and open up the slots under the car or drill holes if I have to and will let you know how it works out.
Thank you all so very much for your help.
I have a 1998 limited convertible. Recently, I parked and the next day it would not start. I have put on a crank sensor, egr valve, rotor, tune up, converter, fuel pump, it runs, but is stalling out, but will restart after a few seconds. Now they say I need a new distributor which will cost $1000+. With all of this I almost have a new car. Anyone having stalling problems and what did you do?
I have a 1998 Chysler Sebring Convertible. Suddenly my odometer switches to read "deck" when it is either on odometer or trip mode. Has anyone else had this problem? I've looked in the manual and no where does it say what this means. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have a `996 Chrysler sebring Coupe. The car runs fine, but has begun to frequently blow the 30A motor fuse. I have been replacing it with Autozone fuses. I am going to get one from either the dealer or a foreign car auto parts store. It initially started blowing the fuse as you drove the car down the road. Now, it pretty much zaps it right away upon attempting to start the engine. Any suggestions?
I had the same problem with it saying deck in the dash. What this means is your trunk is not latched securely.
I've owned my 1997 JXI Convertible for nearly 4 1/2 Years.
It has always been a reliable car however, running great for all these years hasn't kept me from the mechanic. The CHECK ENGINE light has haunted me since day 1. It's on again, it's off again, it's on again. I empty my wallet it keeps coming back. The mechanics don't know how to FIX the problem once and for all, but sure like running my VISA card. The latest is a computer diagnostic that read multiple cylinder misfires. Cylinder 5 and 6 to be exact. Anyone had this problem? Oh yea my odometer comes and goes! Keeps accurate account of mileage, but shares that info with me when it feels like it. Need the car smogged too and can't pass with the CHECK ENGINE light on. Any Tips over this obstacle.
Thanks.
To the person with the random check engine light, that need to pass emissions. Take your car to Auto Zone, or Checkers. They will connect the diagnostic code reader and pull the codes. Ask them to erase the history or clear all codes. Then drive directly to the emissions testing facility without shutting off the car. The engine has to send the same code 3 times for the light to come on, so you should be able to get through emission testing.
I have a 98 Limited. Have had many of the problems that appear in previous posts: ignition key stuck, transmission went out at 115K, A/C resistor, rear defrost falls off, rear view mirror cloudy. NO flooding, thank goodness.
Have had some problems too that I have not seen in previous posts: trunk struts wore out, wouldn't hold open the trunk, CD player will not work in very hot or very cold weather, stereo volume knob works only sometimes, also, my interior (map) lights won't come on if the car has been running for a while (they work when I first start up the car).
Now my instrument panel lights flicker. Odometer still works fine, but the brightness of the illuminated gauges is not consistent. Dealer wants to replace the whole thing for $300. Has anyone had this before and know if there is a repair I can do?
Also, any expertise to offer on the map lights or stereo problems?
Thanks!
I recently purchased a 1999 jxi and had a question concerning noises I heard, a buzzing/ motor running type sound that appears to me coming from under the car. Filled the car with gas and, so far, the sound is gone. Any hints or ideas?