14th Apr 2011, 17:18
The problem is with your ignition module. It is located under your dashboard attached to your steering column. It's not the key lock cylinder, but your key lock ignition cylinder does fit into this part. I've replaced many of these on this kind of car exhibiting the same symptoms. I think it is a Hyundai only part though. You are welcome to try your local parts houses, but I'm pretty sure you have to get it from the Hyundai dealership. Sorry...
10th May 2011, 13:36
You're worried about your air bag light. No problem, I have the same problem with my 2002 Hyundai. I learned to live with it.
11th May 2011, 00:01
I am actually surprised with all of the negative feedback for the 2002 XG 350L. I bought one last year after a dealer replaced the transmission. (at 92k miles) A few months after I bought it, I had to replace the power steering pump (covered by warranty at 94k miles) and everything has been fine since. It does, however, make a whining noise when it is cold. This goes away after a few minutes of the engine running. Cold = 20 degrees and below.
I have not encountered any other problems with this car. It does, however, have a lot of torque steering (pulling to the right) under acceleration in first and even second gear. This could be the "lunging" that many of you may be complaining about. I have not replaced the tires as it came with a really good set of Bridgestone tires.
I would recommend this car based on the performance it has given me.
3rd Aug 2011, 13:39
The same exact stuff is going on with my XG350L. It has 60,000 on it now. In addition to the pumping gas issue, engine light, and air bag light, my oil light flickers, and my ABS/TCS light comes on and stays on sometimes.
I really love the car, however my mechanic hates to work on it because it's not easy replacing parts.
I don't know whether to keep it or sell it. Anyone have any suggestions?
11th Aug 2011, 17:32
We just bought the car off of craigslist. It really seems to be a good solid engine. Great power, but it did miss at a stop light and chug just a bit. We felt like it was probably a coil pack, since our Ford Expedition does the same thing when one is going out. The previous owner said he had changed one of the coil packs and didn't think the chug was anything to worry about.
We did buy the vehicle for $2200, and as we drove our 90 miles back home, the engine light came on and stayed. Took it to our local mechanic, who diagnosed it as #1 coil pack, changed it.. still would miss, changed the injector valve??... still not it, he changed the wiring and the spark plugs while he was in there. It has good pressure, gets fire, has everything showing to be in good shape, should run great, BUT isn't.
What are we missing? He has his machine hooked up to it, and he thought that if it was something in a computer, it would read it, but it doesn't show him anything.. PLEASE HELP.
13th Aug 2011, 08:30
There are a lot of great cars on craigslist... but unfortunately there are a lot lemons and problem cars being dumped on the public right now because of bad economy and unemployment issues with families.
What you will have to do... which is painful... you have to do what the last owner did and the owner before that... clean it up and sell it... and hopefully it falls in the hands of a kindly mechanic with deep pockets..
17th Aug 2011, 17:40
Replace the "ignition failure module"; I've seen this particular little part cause misfires a lot! It's a device that actually is designed to detect misfires and shut off fuel to the injector of that cylinder that is missing. When they go bad, they shut off fuel to random cylinders causing codes like p0300 random multiple misfire and various other misfire codes and conditions. The other thing is that these cars have carbon problems BAD due to the intake design. What happens is the carbon builds up upon the surface of the intake valves in the cylinder heads, and causes them to stick and not seat properly, causing your concern as well. I recommend replacing the ignition control module and doing an extensive engine de-carbon.
This is a procedure that is performed as follows; remove the upper and lower intakes, and remove all six injectors and spark plugs. Get a couple of cans of good intake cleaner (something with a high content of acetone), spray down into each cylinder as well as intake ports of the heads, clean out what you can, but let the solution sit in the intake valves for about 15 minutes or so to help break up the carbon build up, and spin the car over to "blow out" the rest. Do this about three times. Also clean out the intake and throttle body of excess carbon as well. Put everything back together and start it. It's going to be hard to start and smoke like crazy, but that's OK. Then drive it rather hard for a few miles to burn out the remaining carbon.
If its still misses, then you have either a compression issue in the cylinders, or you have some stuck valve lifters. Hope this helps.
Platinum level certified Hyundai Technician
10 years experience.
26th Oct 2011, 09:54
I too have a XG350 purchased new in 2004. Having all of the problems with the check engine light, airbag light, surging. Seems according to my mechanic, that it does not know when to shift gears when driving in the 20-40 mph range. Feels like not a smooth gas flow. The engine is too loud. I have been to the dealer many times. Just don't think it is right. Sure wish someone could recommend a good mechanic in the Largo area of Florida.
21st Feb 2012, 16:29
Hello. Have you figured out the rattles from the rear suspension? The same issue started for me after 80k. Please help.
29th Feb 2012, 07:59
A rattle in the rear is 9 out of 10 times the rubber bushings on top of the strut mounts have worn away, causing a metal on metal of the strut mounts. About a 20$ total in parts, but you have to compress the spring to remove the mount, to re-insert the new bushing M.O.C.
5th Aug 2012, 16:58
I have a 2002 XG350L, and it has been a wonderful car. General maintenance and wear have been the only repairs. I currently have a problem going on that just started, and wonder if anyone has a suggestion?
About a week month ago, the car started to lock the doors automatically, if I slammed the door with the keys in the ignition, even if the car was off. (Please no lectures that you NEVER close the doors with the keys in. Extenuating circumstances and living conditions.) The car has never done this before, so I'm thinking it's a short.
Now, yesterday... parking lights didn't go out and remained on all day. Today I took the keys out and THE LIGHTS STILL STAYED on, even with the keys out! I'm thinking an electrical short or a sensor?
Has anyone else had this problem and resolved it. I have family illness and not a lot of time to research this if someone else can help. Thanks in advance. :-)