Hi everyone, I am so depressed right now, just to see all of your comments. I have had this problem for a few months, and I already spent more than what I paid for the damn car, just trying to fix it, and guess what, the problem is still there!!!
I have replaced everything; I ended up replacing the whole motor, got another one that is good, the car runs fine. The funny thing is that my brother got a damn Maxima shell, and he used the old motor I had before in mine, the one that won't accelerate. After reading all these comments, he replaced the mass airflow sensor for 150, and the damn problem was gone. I was so mad at that point that I decided to give my car for free to my neighbor's just graduated son. I will never buy a Nissan in my life, even if it was the only model that ever existed. I would rather walk on my ass all day.
Besides that, mechanics be honest please. It's not possible that just for a broken hose and the car overheats, you tell people it's the head and head gasket, and that's going to cost you 1299 to do it, when the only thing you do is go to Autozone and buy a 5.99 hose, replace it and fix. (karma)
People, teach yourself how to do your own work. After all this, nobody works on my car but me.
Hey, I feel your pain. I have a 2001 Maxima SE as well. The SES light came on, and the result is the cat is not working well. I will have to change it out, but considering selling the car and getting something different. Before it was the alternator; had to change it twice.
Like everyone here, I am a not too proud owner of a 5th Generation Maxima.. Mine being a 2000. My Max has 99000 miles, and in the past 4 years, here is what has been done.
1. Sept 2008 : replaced 1 of the ignition coils.
2. June 2010: replaced O2 sensor.
3. Feb 2011: idle air valve went bad, shorting out the ECM (ouch).
4. Aug 2011 : idle air valve went bad again (under warranty). Changed spark plugs, 90k maintenance.
In the last 3 years, have spent over $3000 in repairs. The funny thing is, after the ECM was replaced in Feb 2011, 2 days after getting it back, the check engine light went back on. I reset the code and it ran OK (rough at times) until it died out in Aug 2011. Luckily the idle air valve is under warranty and did not fry the ECM again.
Now 3 days after getting it back after replacing the faulty idle air valve.. the car hesitates at the start.. rpm dropping below 400 and eventually stalling. And to think I bought this POS in 2001 as security, because I thought my 93 Honda Civic was near its last leg. Alas, I donated my beloved Civic in 2009 to a worthy charity, and all it needed was a new battery for non use. Knowing what I know now.. this should have been donated to the junk dealer.
I've posted on here a couple of times prior about the problems I have been having. Most recently, got to the point that stalling turned into "could not keep it running".. and it went into safe mode... and would not let you change gears into D or R... would kill engine instantly, and lots of black smoke was coming out when trying to keep it running.
Towed it to dealership (yup, think $$$) but no choice. Keep in mind that I have changed MAF sensor 2 previous times, and coils previously as well, the IACV, and spark plugs.
They read codes and said, "coils, MAF, and plugs"... and quoted like $3000... I had no choice but to go ahead with this stuff... although I knew these had all been changed previously, it's like they just read codes and had the knee-jerk reaction to swap parts out. I personally don't think that is the answer, because the stalling always comes back again after a few weeks.
Anyway, I picked it up last night. Ran really well... they also did a fuel injector flush, and throttle body cleaning. I wanted them to change fuel filter also, but I guess they forgot. I am hoping that this time will be different, because in the past I used local auto shop parts, rather than genuine OEM?? So, if anything, I might have some better warranty to go back on... coils were $175 each, and they wanted about $800 for the MAF assembly... total repair bill was almost as much as the car is worth... Sadly, I think I have to sell this car (even though it's fantastic when running well) so I don't end up throwing more good money after bad... I will report back in a few weeks (if not sold) how things are now running.
I have a 2000 Maxima SE and love the car, and don't want to get rid of it, but if this keeps up, I'll give it away.
I have already replaced all six coils (on the advice of the dealership and another 2nd opinion). The car was already warm when picked up, so it ran great going home. Next morning, I've never seen it run worse.
All the comments are appreciated, but would sure like to know definitively what the problem is. MAF? Throttle body? O2 sensor? Catalytic converter? Would really like to hear, as it almost sounds like a lot of guessing involved...
I was having the same problem with my car dying when I would stop. I had someone tell me that possibly the fuel injector was dirty. I poured in a bottle of fuel injection cleaner at my next fill up, and have not had any problems with it since.
I own a 1997 Nissan Maxima also, and to reset the computer is easy, and you can do it yourself. Go down under the steering wheel, and to the right of the gas pedal, there is a plastic cover over the computer. Undo the cover and you will see the computer (ECM). There is a nut on the computer, turn it clockwise and counter clockwise about 4 times within 15 to 20 seconds. The next time you start your car, the light should be reset.
I too experienced the same problem with my 2003 Maxima. Stalling at stops (reverse, stop signs, stop lights, coming to a stop, etc). Shaking and jerking at 40 miles per hour or so. They replaced the MAF, O2 sensors, cam sensors, crank sensor, knock sensor, and cleaned the throttle body - I believe I covered everything.
Anyhow, if you're having problems with your Maxima stalling at stops or when you're coming to a stop, etc., I would replace the cam sensors, and clean both the throttle body and the MAF - maybe replace the MAF, because the MAF can cause your car to stall. If your problems continue, don't go out and start replacing all of the sensors above, unless you get a check engine code for them.
The problem is most likely in your harness or ECM. Have your mechanic bypass your harness by running the wires directly from the cam sensor to the ECM. If your car still experiences the same problem, it's your ECM. If it doesn't, it's your harness.
You can purchase a used ECM for $200.00 or less, and get it programmed for another $75.00. If it's your harness, you DO NOT need to spend $1200.00 on a new harness. The direct connection from the cam sensor to the ECM can stay connected as is.
Good luck!! I hope this helps you and saves you money, time and aggravation.