18th Feb 2009, 03:55
I currently own a 2002 DTS NS Cadillac with night vision. I also have after market Vogue Tyres with V-9 rims. I've noticed several people mentioning vibrations around 60 mph. I had the same problem for quite some time. I took the car to the dealership and they couldn't figure out what was wrong, told me to get new regular tires, not Vogues. Went to the tire store where I purchased them and they fixed them, only cost me 80.00. By the way for those of you who don't know Vogue Tyres are the black, with the yellow ring outside of a white wall, no caddie should be without them.
18th Mar 2009, 05:37
I have a 2001 DHS and the car cuts off on me while driving, foot on the gas, and at red lights. Getting a torque converter code. I've been reading and researching and I've seen people say the problem might be the CRANK SHAFT sensor, CAMSHAFT sensor or THROTTLE POSITION sensor. Does anyone have any knowledge on this problem before I go waste thousands of dollars?!
30th Aug 2009, 21:50
Have a 2001 Caddy sedan Deville. Let a friend use it for a couple of days. He filled the gas tank with a midgrade fuel instead of the regular that the manufacturer recommends, and since he returned it there is a message on the dash that says "service engine soon". Is there any possible connection with fuel grades to have caused this message. Hesitant to take it to dealer in fear of the unknown - cost. Any suggestions?
27th Feb 2010, 21:48
I bought a 2001 DHS this past April with 110000km for 11000, thinking it was a steal as it was my first Caddy.
Loves the road - eats it up. Loves the shop more I think.
Been in for new tires (to control the shake) - fixed the problem - rides like silk sheets.
Been in for a seat fixin' to get the heater and the front up/down mechanism fixed - $600.00. When I asked if a new seat would be cheaper, the guy actually laughed... and then told me the mechanism for a seat was 1600 - that was if they kept the scratchy leather on the current one.
Well there you go.
Two months later smoke came out of the radio.
$500.00 later it was working, but then wouldn't eject the CD.
Took it in; they said another $530 to fix the CD player?
I have gotten used to Barry White. Two months later it ejected fine. Thought I had $530.00 for mad money, but then fourth gear dropped out of the tranny and they tell me $4100 for a rebuild with one year warranty, and $5100 for a new one with 3 year warranty.
I need to start a Cadillac service dept as apparently it is a licence to print money!
The federal government should have bailed out the dealerships as they are the sure bet to pay off the national debt!
Did I mention it is Pearl with a mint condition tan landau top? Gorgeous car.
You know I will be sweating out the cash because it is such a sweeeeeeeet ride, but it is starting to hurt the wallet pretty bad.
12th May 2010, 02:28
I just put a deposit on a 2001 DeVille with 74,000 miles. Should I go get my money back?
12th May 2010, 02:36
The purchase of any used car can be a nightmare. A car can be wrecked and not end up on Carfax (let's say if uncle Joe, fixes it in his garage).
I have really had good luck with used cars except for my 1978 Ford Mustang 2. I bought new cars for a few years and decided that financially, it was stupid.
Anyway, I just put a deposit on a 2001 DeVille, solver, one owner 74,000 miles. I know everything works now. I hope and pray I have no issues. A mechanic friend told me that all in all those are good cars. I really don't care if the seat heaters go out, because it will be garage kept.
Another thing folks need to realize is that, the more things there are on a car, the more there is to go wrong with it.
13th May 2010, 23:27
"The purchase of any used car can be a nightmare. A car can be wrecked and not end up on Carfax (let's say if uncle Joe, fixes it in his garage)."
People put entirely too much emphasis on CarFax, and it does far more harm than good. As a mechanic and car enthusiast, I NEVER check a CarFax. If I drive a car, thoroughly inspect it and it has a like-new appearance I could CARE LESS if it has been in an accident. Modern car repair has reached a stage where repairs literally DO make the car "as good as new". I owned a car several years ago that I bought from the original owner, who was my best friend, and I KNEW it had been in not one, but TWO major crashes. BOTH ENDS had been pretty badly damaged. The car looked like new, drove like new, and ran like new right up until I finally got tired of it and sold it at 240,000 miles. I couldn't ask for much more out of ANY car.
14th May 2010, 14:12
Does anybody know what kind of speaker to buy to replace the rear center one on a 2001 Deville? I am assuming it is a sub woofer? Or by chance is there a setting on the radio to turn it on or off?
23rd May 2010, 23:49
The rear subwoofer of the 2001 Cadillac Deville can only be purchased at a GM dealership. Stereo shops speakers can't produce the excellent bass sound. No other speaker will work and you would be wasting your money. That subwoofer price is about $500 + $l50 for installing. A cost of about $650. That's a steep price. However, you may try ebay. I got lucky and found one at a salvage yard and it worked. This is a common problem with Cadillac. I had the same problem without any warning. My sub started making cracking sound and I don't play my car stereo loud. DB.
15th Jun 2010, 22:47
I own a 2000 DeVille now with 209000 miles. It was purchased about 4 years ago with 58000 miles, so it's been on the road quite a bit.
For anyone who's been experiencing the vehicle cutting off when decelerating, cruising or idling, the problem could be the idle air control motor (IACM). I experienced that earlier this year, and the dealer, as well as several mechanics, couldn't accurately diagnose the problem. Finally, a highly recommended mechanic was able to fix this problem, and currently does an excellent job handling any other issues.
I plan on getting 300K+ miles out of this car; it's well on its way. Find a great personal mechanic, not the ones at the dealer, and your car problems can be easily dealt with, and at a reasonable cost vs the dealer.
5th Dec 2008, 11:03
One important thing about wheel vibration most people overlook on the Deville (I own a 2001 myself) is that tire pressure is critical-- I found this out thru experimentation on my own car. The correct tire pressure for the Base Deville (not sure about DHS or DTS, though.) is 30 PSI, not 32 or 35 PSI!
I had a mild vibration at highway speeds, and discovered that once I set the air pressure @ 30 PSI, all vibration went away. You should be able to find the recommended tire pressure on the inside opening of the rear passenger door-- try this first before doing anything else.