1st Jun 2012, 13:59
The grinding sound could be the power steering fluid. I had a dealer replace the rack (800$) and the power steering pump (150$), only to realize it was just some air stuck in the line that required the system to be bled by a vacuum pump (free).
If your steering is grinding and making a god awful belt type sound, it could just be air in the line causing unwanted resistance in the power steering pump.
1st Jun 2012, 14:08
I've had lots of different problems with my Impala (3.5L 2006); most of them stem from what I believe is the worst suspension in the world. It has a very weak suspension; the front end wobbles really bad if the car is in less than perfect condition, and the rear end has a lot of problems with control arms.
Essentially my steering wheel vibrates when braking at around 0-30mph, but at higher speeds it is fine.
Hit the slightest bump, and it makes a loud almost metal on metal sound in the rear, and the suspension almost slides in the back, which does nothing to make a driver feel safe.
I've been assured there is no mechanical problem, and that the suspensions on Impalas just get really loose really quick with age, and that unless you pay a fortune to tighten it, the annoying, unsafe, loose ride will continue.
1st Aug 2014, 22:36
It's probably the safety switch that tells the shift mechanism your foot is on the brake. The wires inside the console break from movement of the lever. Mine did it twice. I figured out how to press the release up under the console on the passenger side to drive it to the dealership. There was a video on YouTube.
5th Oct 2014, 14:50
I have a 2006 Chevrolet Impala LT, which I purchased in 2012 with 79,000 km on it.
I was having a problem with the car not accepting gas into the tank. I took it to the first dealer, and they replaced the solenoid, the harness & a vent valve no. 12592015. They said it was repaired, & after $364.31 we drove it till it needed a fillup, & voila we still had the same problem. Since we were out of town the first time, & they said the work was warrantied, we took it to our local dealer. They did not honour the previous work on it.
The local dealer replaced a canister worth $325.00, & with the diagnostics charges & labour charges, it came to $882.13. To add insult to injury, they did not even check the car to ensure the problem was fixed. We drove across the street to a gas station, & voila it was still not accepting gas properly. We went right back to the dealer & they kept the car for the next week till the regular service manager was back from holidays.
Now we were getting some proper service. This manager, without dropping the gas tank, checked the intake nozzle on the gas tank & found a small round cardboard insert in the neck of it. He took it out and gave it to us, which cost us another $166.98.
What I am angry about is no one else checked at the source of the problem, where we would have paid $166.98 & the problem would have been fixed. I tried going through GM's customer service reps to no avail to try & get some of the parts expenses including labour back. The only thing they offered me was another $1,000 off on a new car purchase. Do they think I am crazy? If that's the kind of service I get at their dealership - why would I invest money in a new car with them.
Toyota here I come!!
9th Oct 2014, 20:30
We've had several Impalas in our family. Never a hint of a problem with any. Totally reliable and amazingly good gas mileage for a big car. My wife currently drives a 12-year-old GM car with over 130,000 miles. So far it has cost us a total of $77 in repairs. So far it has never had a brake job (will easily make 200,000 miles on original pads), has never had a tuneup, alignment, shocks or radiator or A/C serviced.
20th Nov 2014, 11:09
As far as remote start not working - mine stopped working on my 06 Impala (along with keyless entry and tire pressure monitor). I fixed it by removing and re-installing the "Display" fuse. Everything works great now.
21st Feb 2015, 03:06
I recommend cleaning the drain tube out. It's usually found on the lower right firewall, engine side. I like to use a short length of tie wire folded in half, I then insert the folded end in the drain and twist it around as I push it in. If that is your problem, you should get a gush of water out!
Best Wishes, DCDODGETECH
21st Feb 2015, 19:31
This works on many cars. It's easier to use an air blow gun or even a portable tire inflator and blow backwards from the disconnected charcoal canister hose to clean the dirt or bugs out of the tank air vent line. Open your gas cap first. You just did a free fix. Or disconnect both canister lines at the canister. Blow into the charcoal canister fuel tank inlet. If you don't feel air on the opposite side, the canister is bad. That isn't free. But you can buy one and do it yourself. Those fortunate to own old pre-70 cars don't have this problem. It vents straight back to the environment. If you aren't handy, they have dealers.
9th Jan 2016, 22:52
Ask them to check the solenoids in your transmission. I had this problem and it ended up turning into a overhaul of the transmission, but if I would have had the solenoid replaced when it started to happen, the overhaul would have been avoided. When I would start the car, everything would be fine, and going into reverse was never a problem. Sometimes it would be difficult to move the shifter, but as time went on, it would rev high and then punch into the next gear. I was also getting high RPM highway driving, averaging about 3100, but they explained it's because one solenoid makes you lose two gears, so I was driving with only 1st and 3rd gear. Hasn't had a problem since, just holes from rust on top of the mufflers has made it progressively louder, but Rockauto has them for cheap.