31st May 2011, 22:19

There is a set screw that needs to be let out a little and the sticky will go away. As you let off the gas, that screw hits a piece of metal and over time, it turns the screw and leaves slack in the line.

23rd Jun 2011, 11:04

I had the same problem on my truck. The column shifter has really thin wires for the tow/haul switch. Remove the steering column bezel and inspect, if the wires are broken, the shifter lever has to be replaced.

13th Jul 2011, 06:16

I have a 1999 1500 LS 2wd with 5.3 engine with 4 wheel disc brakes. I have had it for two years. It was getting time for new brakes, so during this process, I noticed that my front pads had virtually no wear on them, and my rear pads were gone. My first thought was to check the front calipers. They were not seized and had full movement, so I replaced the master cylinder and still had no pressure to them. Came to find out that my ABS unit up inside my frame has a problem, and doesn't supply pressure to my front brake system. After picking myself up off the ground from the shock of the price of a new unit, I decided to completely bypass the ABS unit.

I completed the new brake line installation a couple of days ago, and everything seems to be working fine. I also like having full control of my brakes again. I don't think the automotive idea of force feeding us with the anti-lock braking system was a good move.

27th Aug 2011, 17:54

1991 GMC Sierra.

Bought new, drove it for 11 years, 251,000 miles until my new wife made me sell it, 'cause I tinkered with it too much on weekends.

Rear axle housing was off center on the left side, had to replace the seal every 90k miles, tranny died at 127k, engine popped a head gasket at 202k. Replaced a couple of starters & alternators along the way. Clear coat peeled off a few places after about 9 years, so I repainted it. All in all, a pretty good truck. I still miss it.

Now my '02 Silverado that I replaced it with was a whole different story...

16th Sep 2011, 13:32

The problem with your sticking gas pedal can be solved with a little carburetor cleaner. Remove the black plastic that connects to the throttle body. Spray the cleaner on all the parts that move, and the shaft on the butterfly valve. The whole job takes about 5 minutes. Do it about every 10,000 miles. Good luck.

20th Sep 2011, 10:42

I've been driving Chevy's since I was 16. Have had Dodges & Fords; too cantankerous. Now have a 94 1500, with over 300,000. Had a few minor problems, but won't have any other to rely on. Even have a '65; no telling how many times it's clocked over.

1st Jun 2012, 11:19

The 4l60e in these trucks is a computer controlled 700r4. It's a weak trans; they lose reverse due to stripping the shell. 90 percent of the time it's from putting the truck in gear while it's cold and still idling high.

29th Sep 2017, 20:42

Well an automatic transmission is designed to put wear on clutches to have a “smooth” shift, and due to that it’s destined to fail; now when that will happen is dependent on the driver and how well it’s maintained (change transmission filter and fluid every 30,000 miles) and always use the newest version of the specified fluid. Like I believe the older Chevys required Dexron 3 and the newest version is Dexron 4 I believe.

12th Oct 2021, 20:09

My 1999 LS 5.3 Sticking Throttle issue has never been a carbon build up issue. If you regularly change your PCV, you will rarely experience this. My issue is somewhere in the axis of the butterfly assembly caused by spring torsion wear at the end of the circuit.

Cleaning the throttle body or spring has never done anything to alleviate the stick. What will fix the issue is re-adjusting the set screw of the butterfly's closed position. This screw's head is up under the shut position cam and I've yet to determine what kind of driver it takes. Anyone?