2000 Nissan Maxima SE 3.0 litre gas from North America

Summary:

These cars were not made to withstand the elements of the North American climate

Faults:

Too much surface rust appearing under the paint all over the body. Rotting from the inside??

Too much body rot in structural areas.

It has the famous radiator support rot, right where the engine cradle bolts onto. This could potentially make the vehicle unsafe to drive.

Can you say, planned obsolescence?

I think these vehicles were made of powdered rust that was melted down, and made into 'new' cars. Good job, Nissan.

Needless to say, this problem will be a massive PITA to correct.

Otherwise, the car runs and drives excellent.

If only Nissan chose to use REAL STEEL to build their vehicles.

A recall on these vehicles for the structural rust problems should be made!! Nissan should own up.

General Comments:

Nice interior.

Bad design on the carpeting: too much spongy underlay, which holds water and rots out the floor pan.

Four wheel disc brakes: good if you are racing, but in regular day-to-day driving, all they do is get rusted out.

Powerful engine, the 3.0 litre DOHC loves to rev.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 18th August, 2012

22nd Aug 2012, 23:59

You're complaining about rust on a car approaching 400,000 miles. Come on. That's a LOT of driving, and a lot of elements it's driven in. You can't expect most cars to be in good cosmetic condition after nearly 400,000 miles.

MODERATOR'S NOTE: this comment refers to a mileage error in the review, which has since been corrected.

25th Aug 2012, 12:03

OP here, in response to the commenter.

I messed up on the mileage. The car actually has 280,000 kms, not 380,000 miles, as I had originally posted.

And, if you think I am overreacting to the rust issues, have a look at this: http://www.nissanforums.com/general-altima-stanza-discussion/137783-altima-rust-shocker.html

18th May 2015, 15:24

You're DEFINITELY overreacting. For a North American car to last 280k miles or more is impressive. Look at ANY other car that has 280k on it from your region and I guarantee it has as much rust. So yes little fella, you ARE overreacting.

2000 Nissan Maxima SE from Australia and New Zealand

Summary:

Money guzzler!!!

Faults:

Starter.

Alternator.

Air compression unit.

O2 sensors.

Leather seats wearing badly.

Check engine light comes on and off on its own.

Loud popping noise from the front end.

Both U joints had to be replaced on the front end.

General Comments:

I was very disappointed in this vehicle. I am the second owner of this car. After having the car for 3 months, I had to have the air compression unit replaced, which cost me 350.00. Then the alternator went out the following month, which cost 750.00.

I had the vehicle out of the shop for 1 day after having the starter and u-joints replaced at a cost of 600.00, and the check engine light is on, along with a loud popping noise from the front end.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 29th December, 2011

10th Nov 2014, 18:54

This car is front wheel drive. It doesn't have universal joints. Those are a part of the driveline on a rear-wheel drive car. A front wheel car has constant velocity (CV) joints. If someone sold you universal joints, I would go back to the shop with a pointed stick to demand your money back.

2000 Nissan Maxima from North America

Summary:

Don't buy it

Faults:

First, let me say it has been nothing but a money pit, one for Nissan's bank. I will never buy fake prestige again. Bought a Ford Crown Vic almost 2 years ago, infinitely a better vehicle than the Maxima.

I paid $12000 for the Maxima in 2005, and have racked up $8000 in repair bills as of the date I finally unloaded it. Never again.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 8th March, 2011

2000 Nissan Maxima GLE 3.0L V6 from North America

Summary:

Promises a lot, delivers most, but fails due to mechanical and electrical faults

Faults:

MAF replaced at 115000.

Primary and secondary O2 sensors replaced at 118000.

Every front alignment piece changed almost right away (upgraded to MOOG).

Battery changed at 158000.

Rear shocks at at 160000.

Replaced every gasket in the engine bay.

Changed transmission pan, oil and filter.

Repaired exhaust (continuous).

General Comments:

Fast - just ridiculous for a car its size.

Cavernous trunk.

Handles like a race car.

Lots of toys.

I get 8.9-10L/100km in summer and 12-13 in winter.

To those who need to do some repairs. Please note that an inexperienced DIYer with little tools should not attempt any engine repairs. It's simple when things go right, but horribly difficult when they go wrong without the backup of a stock of tools.

That said, it took me 18 hours to change every gasket in the engine bay, clean the intake, paint the valve covers and put it all back. It's simple if you follow step by step the Factory Service Manual (FSM). BUT, have a 10mm and 12mm long socket and a 10mm and 12mm short drive wrench and socket (for the rear bolts holding the plenum in place on the firewall side. Very tough to get at otherwise. You will likely scratch up your knuckles). A few elbows would not hurt either.

Email me at apollo111111@hotmail.com if you get stuck or want some guidance as to how to diagnose your issues. I have had them all, and spent 122 hours with mechanics and Nissan techs. Trust me, I probably know what's wrong with it, and what tests you need to do to stop ripping your hair out!

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 8th February, 2011

7th Apr 2013, 14:53

I own this car too, and bought it used at 97,000 miles. It's been doing alright, and is presently at 115,000 miles.

The vehicle has not being used much in recent times, as I had to relocate to another continent. The car is used sparingly, and recently I noticed the high consumption of gas. I have not changed the spark plugs, but have replaced the MAF sensor.

When accelerating, sometimes you notice something like a momentary pause in the acceleration, and then it thrusts forward again. I have always noticed this with the car anyway.

I need your view on what might be causing the high gas consumption. My mechanic says the MAF sensor isn't good, even though I bought it brand new from an automobile parts dealer in the UK, where I reside. The car is presently in Nigeria and we don't seem to have very good mechanics in the part of the country where the car is parked.

I am contemplating selling it cos of this problem, but I'm not happy about that cos I love the car.

Thanks, as I await your suggestions.

14th Jul 2013, 14:20

Send me an email on bukkytronics@yahoo.com should you want to sell it.