I had the same leakage problem and have had to replace the brakes and rotors and an oxygen sensor in just a year of purchasing the car. I also had to do routine maintenance, such as tires, etc but I have invested a lot in this car. I'm going to drive it until it dies, I have it paid off, and until something bad happens to it, I'm keeping it.
When it comes to the leakage problem, if you just find the drain holes that the person above ^ mentioned, find a wire hanger and bend it to stick into the holes and run a hose down the back window, when you see water and dirt start to pour out of these drains, then you fixed the problem. :)
Is there any way you can help me with the modified resistor in the dash for the Sebring 1997 JXI? Someone posted that there's a guy on ebay that has them.
Can you please tell me what the problem was.
Get a new top or you can try pulling off your back seat and reconnecting the drain hoses back. There is two drain plugs in the back. Check if they're connected properly and not plugged, and also check to see if the hoses are positioned right to allow water to run out the vehicle. If they are not properly installed the water will continue to run out into your back seat.
Your odometer and speedometer issue could be in the resistors in the cluster panel. I pulled mine out and found they were burnt out. I replaced them and have had no issues since. Sometimes the solder cracks and separates. This means it will not function unless something pushes them back together temporarily, which could be nothing more than a "bump" in the road.
I am also having a problem with my bucket seats on my 1997 Sebring Convertable LXI; they seem to work on occasions. This is a concern, because in Arizona it is the law to wear them. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Pretty sure it's your fuel pump, but I'd get a second opinion before I go out and buy a new one.
You have to wear your bucket seats in Arizona?
Hope I never have to drive there, sounds uncomfortable.
I have a 1997 Sebring JXI convertible. I drove it to the mall, no problem, when I came out and started it, it would shut off, there is a red light blinking on the dash, as well as the lights on the rearview mirror and inside the two doors.
Any idea what this could be?
Help - Urgent! Car is parked at the mall!
Well the electronics in your car sound like a dead short occurring somewhere... most likely due to water damage. You getting ill is probably black mold due to water damage. I have a 97 Sebring, and all it likes to do is take on water, and try to hold it.
Did the radio ever start working when the car dried out? I am having same problems with a 1999.
Deck light means the trunk lid is open.
Hi, my name is Nick, and I just wanted to say that I think you definitely made a bad trade, because I also have a 97 Sebring, and I am having every problem you could think of. I've changed every part that was scanned, and it still doesn't run.
I just put in a new PCM, and now it starts, then stalls; with the old PCM, it would run and drive fine when the engine was cold, but when it warmed up, it would run rough and act like it wanted to die, so I changed the PCM, and now I can't even drive it, and can't figure out what the problem is, so if I were you, I would get rid of Sebring and save yourself a lot of money. In the long run, you will wish you did.
I spent over 600 dollars on parts, and wish I hadn't bought it. If I would have taken it to a shop, it would have cost over 3000 to fix because of labor. Just a suggestion and friendly advice, so you don't have to go thru what I am, I would get a different car.
Just thought I would share my experience with the Sebring, and hope I can save you money and headaches. Thanks for your time. I hope you take my advice; I would feel a lot better if I am able to save someone from disaster.
Well thanks again.
Crank sensor and cam sensor have to work together for the computer to fire the engine. The crank sensor is in a bad place, and gets funky with oil. Change first through the left front tire area behind the plastic shield.. You will not be able to reach from the top.. Next would be the cam sensor in the distributor; not hard to rebuild, a moderate task.
Tach and odometer are the result of bad soldering on the back of board #210 between the blue resistors; both sides need to be soldered. You will see dull and cracked connections... Good luck, it's not too hard, a 2 hour job!
Sebrings have a drainage tube that gets clogged with debris. I was lucky to meet with a car upholstery rep who fixed the problem for $25.
I have recently have problems with the cluster panel of gauges... I found a replacement at the used parts store.
Otherwise, my 1997 Sebring has 208k miles, I just replaced the engine, and rebuilt my transmission about 120k. Hanging in there because I don't want new car payments. I need a new top now...
Overall, it's a great looking and running car.
I wonder if you have learned the problem with your seat belts? I have a 1997 JXI, and last year the seat belts started releasing when they felt like it. My mechanic told me they had to be replaced, so I spent $305 replacing them. They continued to do the same thing. My boyfriend read in the manual that there is a control in the console, but now I can't find where he read it. I have pinned them so they can't retract, but this isn't the desired solution long-term. Unless I find correct information, my mechanic is at a loss as to how to fix the problem.
I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring JXi. It cranks, but doesn't turn over. Changed the distributor and crank sensor, and it's still not turning over. Can someone please help?
The best way to get to the root of the problem is to get a tech to look at it.
The drain for these convertibles is right in front of the rear tire at the bottom of the inner fender. There should be a small hole there to drain the water. If it is plugged, just unplug it; problem solved.
What was the problem with the stalling? I am having the same problem, and we can't figure it out. Have tried everything!!!
As for the gauge cluster issue, take the dash apart to get the cluster out, then unplug the two connections to the cluster. Put dielectric grease on the connections. The reason for it going in and out is because it's a continuity issue.
Do you have to remove the dash to solder the resistor for mileage?
Under the rockers there are drain holes at the front and rear rocker (under the doors) which become clogged. I use a compressor and an air nozzle to blow them out yearly to stop the dreaded wet floor problem. Since I have done this, the water drains as fast as it accumulates in the trunk reservoir.
I had the same on and off odometer. I pulled the dash trim around the cluster. I pulled the 4 screws out of the cluster and pushed on the plug that connects the odometer display to the board, and it lights up. So I put a 1/4 inch thick 2x4 inch bull nose tile with a 1/2 inch thick rubber foam behind the cluster.
I lined up the foam block with the plug and tightened the screws. Now it works just fine. It stays on all the time.
Anyone know how to fix the radio volume button? And also the single CD player keeps saying "err". Thanks.
Please tell my how to reset the anti theft system after it has been set off. Cannot get the horn to quit blowing without unplugging the battery.
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