1989 Mazda B2200 SE-5 2.2 Liter from North America


Takes a lickin' and keeps on ticking!


The slave cylinder and master cylinder had to be replaced at about 148,000 miles; however, they are rather inexpensive.

Check engine light stays on.

The throw out bearing needed replacing at 155,000 miles, so I decided to replace the clutch while I had the transmission pulled away from the engine.

Bench seat has bad wearing on driver side.

The choke sticks at warm up and causes the truck to use more gas than normal; however, I'm going to replace it with a manual choke very soon... that will solve that problem.

General Comments:

I really enjoy having this truck. It is very reliable, and a hard worker. I purchased my truck from a college girl for $1,000. With now over 156,000 miles on it, it has been a very, very reliable truck.

My only complaint is that it is slow; however, that can be solved with a little aftermarket parts and just plain old tinkering.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 29th January, 2003

3rd Sep 2003, 13:46

Check engine light very simple to turn off. Under the dash, you can switch two wires and it will turn off, but designed to turn back on after another 60K miles or so as a reminder. Consult the Chilton books.

15th May 2004, 21:57

I just tried switching the wires and it worked great!! I have 140,000 miles on my 89 B2200, when it flipped 140,000 miles the check engine light came on... pissed me off... so I went and replaced my O2 smog stuff, spark plugs & wires, had my timing timed, carb adjusted, and cap/router replaced... light still stayed on... thanks for the tip, the light @ night was starting to bother me...

30th Jun 2005, 01:00

Can someone specifically comment on which two wires to switch in order to reset the "timing belt" dash light?

1989 Mazda B2200 2.2L 4-cylinder gasoline from North America


Best d**n Wheelbarrow I ever bought


Rebuilt Engine at 120K due to most engine seals and gaskets hardening up and leaking.

Drivers side rear brakes came apart a few days after I got the truck.

I bought it used, and they had it "serviced" before putting it out on the lot.

I think someone didn't lock one of the springs down securely.

Tail pipe disintegrated about a year after I bought the truck.

It finally got to the muffler and I replaced it.

When pricing I found out it needed a complete exhaust system, from the rear catalytic converter, back.

This was going to cost about $175!

I opted for the stock intermediate pipe, which connected the converter to the muffler, then get a $12 "California Turbo" muffler, some plumbers tape to hang it, and a couple of short sections of miscellaneous exhaust pipe.

The whole thing ended up only costing me about $40 and it came off with a rather "raspy" sound, but not as obtrusive as you might think.

Recently the slave cylinder for the clutch blew, and I had to change it, but at 202,000 miles and 13 years old, these types of things are to be expected.

UPDATE: 8/31/09 - Just changed out the clutch. Got 120,644 miles out of that one... and it was only 2/3 gone. Probably coulda gone at least another year before I was out of disc. Unfortunately, 3 of the 4 springs in the clutch disc had broken and 1/2 a coil of one of the springs popped out and jammed the pressure plate, so it wouldn't shift. This is not one of the easier vehicles to do a clutch job on. 10 bolts hold the tranny to the engine. A number of brackets to remove. Not much room to get to the top bolts (make sure you pull those before lifting the truck). Cross member that braces the torsion bars sits right under the back end of the tailshaft housing, so tranny cannot just be "dropped", but needs to be "manuvered". I left it up and pushed it back as far as possible. Had about 10" of room to work with. Tranny mount has braces for E-brake yoke and cables. Spring for yoke needs to be removed (not the easiest thing in the world to do). Cables are held in by simple sliding clips. Mount secured by 4 nuts and bolts, two to a side, and the nuts were on top of the brace the mount connected to, which means trying to maneuver a 14mm combo wrench to hold those nuts. I flipped that arrangement over upon reassembly. Everything else, pretty straight forward.

Most parts were replaced with good junkyard parts, and I've saved quite a bit of money over the years doing things this way.

Oddly enough, for many years, the only trucks I could find were made in 1987.

Thus, I jokingly tell people that if I throw anymore '87 parts into my '89 Mazda, I'm gonna start calling it an '88! ;-)

General Comments:

For the most part, I'm quite pleased with my little truck.

For any homeowner who has a decent sized piece of land (say at least 1/2 acre), these little trucks can't be beat.

Another thing I'm often quoted as saying is this little truck is the best d**n wheelbarrow I ever bought!

For disposing of leaves in the fall, or trimming hedges or tree limbs, this thing works great! I wish I'd had one of these when I was a kid, when my dad used to make me do all the yard work!

Park it under a tree and clip the branches right into the bed, then haul it off to the woods and dump it.

Momma wants the wood pile moved closer to the house?

No problem, move it all at once with one of these little things.

Their small size makes them easy to maneuver around in tight spaces, and I average a combined city/freeway mileage of 25 mpg, so I don't feel as guilty about the gas I burn while driving around in my unloaded truck, as when I had my '65 GMC with the V-6 that only got 8 miles to the gallon.

This truck works great and even if I sell it tomorrow (not a chance, kids!) I'm sold on the mini-truck idea.

Best little "toy" any one could have.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know

Review Date: 29th June, 2002

6th Apr 2005, 10:16

I found your comments on the 89 Mazda interesting, but I have never seen a V6 in a 65 GMC? And 8 MPG? Must have been racing with it! My brother has a full-size GMC Pickup V6 auto and gets 20+ MPG... comments?

19th Jul 2006, 02:22

During the 1960's ALL GMC pick-ups came with a large motor that was a V-6 design.

Mine, as were many, displaced 305 cubic inches. Some had the larger 351 cubic inch V6.

ONLY the GMC's had them. The Chevrolet trucks had the inline "Nova" 6-cylinder engine as standard (230 until '67, then 250 until '84. Some had 292's) and the various V-8's as options (NOTE: there was a "standard" V-8, depending on year, could be 283, 307, 305 or 350. All small blocks).

The GMC V6 was a "truck engine", so no racing mills here. Built to run for a long time with minimal maintenance.

GMC later "Dieselized" some of those V6's into what became the "Toro-Flow" Diesel's of the 1970's. Displacement maxed out at 478 cubic inches. 401's were quite popular in the marine and medium truck market.

There was a V-12 gas engine too, called a "702". It was comprised of two 351 V6's bolted together (my late father worked at a GMC dealership in Salina, Kansas in the mid 1960s and told me about that when I was a kid).

There was also a V-8 variant based on the GMC V-6 design, which displaced something around 500-600 cubic inches. From what I understand it was never very popular.

The design was bought by the Nissan motor company in the 1980's and was the basis for the motor used in the original 300ZX. The most obvious trait that carried over to the Nissan motor (other than the fact that it stayed a V6) was that the spark plugs stayed on top of the head (near the intake manifold, not through the valve cover) and the valve cover still looked like it came off an old Chevy 348 or 409 V8.

To the best of my knowledge, Nissan still owns that design.