1999 Nissan Maxima 3.0L from North America


Always Waiting For The Check Engine Light To Come On Again!


Ignition coils! I always try to do my own auto repairs whenever I can. So when the check engine light came on, I went to Auto Zone to get them to read the codes to find out why the service engine light was on. After I got the codes, I did a little research and found out that a coil was the problem, so I replaced it. This fixed the problem, so I thought. Soon the light was back on. I had the codes checked; again - same problem, different coil. I think the cost of the defective coils should be picked up by Nissan, because this is a big ugly black mark on their reliability and customer service, since they refuse to issue a recall on what appears to be defective coils.

Hood supports no longer hold the hood up. I would rather have the support bar instead of this.

General Comments:

You may have to spend a lot of time and/or money if you are going to own this one. The last time I checked, the replacement coils were about $85 X 6 = $510 if you replace them all yourself (which is what most of what I've read recommends.) If you have it done it will cost about $800 ~ $1200. I also have read about another expensive repair on the knock sensor. This car has been a thorn in my side!

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 6th July, 2007

21st Nov 2009, 16:56

I have had the same engine coil problems on my 1999 Maxima SE. I researched the problem online and found a lot of posts from people with the same problem. They even had it repaired or have done it themselves and it keeps recurring. I just let mine be. It ran with a massive lack of power, but it was better than wasting $480 on coils every two weeks.

My car's TCS Slip lights came on a week after I bought it, and when they are on, the car runs horribly. For a while they were off and on, now they are always on, along with the blinking check engine light and the air bag lights. I replaced all of the fluids, the oil and fuel filter and the spark plugs but to no avail.

My hood won't stay up so I use a snow brush, my CD player stopped working and only reads CD ERR every time.

Now it runs worse than ever and shakes violently when the gas pedal is depressed and surges when it is idling. It will only do a maximum of fifteen miles an hour up hill and pretty much has absolutely no power.

I am done with this car. I have sat up for several nights reviewing posts online and thumbing through my Haynes manual cover to cover. I spend every day off bent over the hood cleaning plugs, checking wiring, tubes and hoses for leaks. Checking the exhaust and intake manifolds for leaks. Checking the fuel pressure and the engine's combustion. looking for cracks on the manifolds.

Yep, I am done with it. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is not in the engine, but it is in the PCM, and that the car needs a whole new computer, one that won't send the wrong signals for the firing order of the spark plugs and injectors. But that would cost more than the car is worth, so goodbye Maxima, and so long Nissan!!!

21st Nov 2009, 23:17

AN old sage motor mechanic friend pointed out one component universally neglected.. The THERMOSTAT. If it jams open, then engine never warms up, so the choke cycle continues, it guzzles juice, the plugs foul, the valves and exhaust burn out...

SO open the radiator cap (not the plastic bottle) when COLD. Start the engine and let it idle. Note when the water first gushes from engine into the top of the radiator.. usually visible. Take the temperature. You need either a lab-style thermometer, or better, a multimeter with thermocouple and temperature range, just dunk the wire sender in the water.

Check the opening temp, usually somewhere below boiling. So 87 or 93 degrees C would be typical, but check as each model is different. DON'T open a hot radiator!!

If the water is flowing when the engine is cold you have a duff thermostat, jammed open (failsafe mode).

No instrument needed other than a Mk-1 Eyeball!


21st Mar 2011, 18:05

I actually got a new computer in my 99 within a year of buying it (2001), just made my warranty. My car has been a good car, normal wear and tear, radio buttons, high on my fan. Been a good car in my opinion though.

1999 Nissan Maxima SE 3.0L V6 from North America


Still love the car, just afraid it's going to start bleeding money now


Car has been great up until the last few months. It looks like I'm having the same issue that a lot of other people are having, bad ignition coils. I took it to the dealer (who has been pretty good actually) and he said he can't diagnose which coil of the 6 it could be. I don't understand how that's possible. He's telling me that it will require replacing 1 coil, driving the car for an hour and checking to see if that was the "bad one." If not, repeating the process until the faulty coil is discovered. Gotta be an easier way right? I tried to click on that online petition link, but it seems to no longer exist. Is Nissan ever going to do anyting about this?

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 15th May, 2007

16th May 2007, 10:12

Why would Nissan do anything about it? It's a 8 year old car for Christs sake!

16th May 2007, 12:07

I would go to Advance Auto Parts and buy some non-Nissan ignition coils for the car, a new set of six. I realize this is a sizable amount of money, but it will be a good investment as you can probably get some that are better than the factory coils and have a longer warranty. Also, they will be cheaper than buying coils through the dealer, not to mention it will be less aggravating to replace all six at once and not wait on the next one or two to fail.

8th Jun 2008, 20:11

How do you figure it should still be like new at 8 years... an average person puts 10 to 11 thousand miles on a car in a year. That's 88 thousand miles... A car will start to show it's wear around that time. Get over it, fix it or sell it.