Hi, I'm an owner of GXL 93 model, and please check the mods I made on my van for the electricals and cooling system.
1. Remove the old ignition distributor, (contact point type) and install a contact pointless distributor from a 4K newer models; this is totally compatible, even the ignition coil, rotor and the cap. This will give you almost complete combustion, more miles per gallon, and my NGK spark plugs are still the same after I made this mod. (more than 4 years now).
2. Remove and replace the old 35 AMP (I guess) alternator and replace it with 90 AMP alternator with built in solid state regulator. You might still want to use the old pulley on the old alternator for this mod. Now your battery will last for 3 years or more. Another mod I made was to remove the built in regulator inside the alternator, and I installed it outside the regulator, keeping away from the hot temperature the alternator is giving off. I still used the same battery size, which is 2 SN maintenance free battery.
3. Install a relay for the head lamps, and take the B+ of the relay from the alternator B+ output directly, and not on the battery. Your lamp will give you more light than before, but be sure to use heavy gauge wire like AWG#8 like the one I installed in my car.
4. Install additional grounding wire directly from the B- of the battery to the distributor body, alternator body, engine valve cover, and the main chassis or body of the van. Older vehicles tend to rust, losing grounding/bonding ability.
5. Remove the clutch fan and install auxiliary fan with temperature switch (sensor) and relays; you will get extra 10 - 20% engine power when accelerating, and you will eliminate the fan noise during acceleration and high speed driving.
6. Remove and plug the small hose coming from the water pump to the top where your radiator cap is installed.
7. Check the radiator seat cap (the one that the radiator is installed) for mold and roughness; it should be free from mold, and it should not be rough, otherwise rubber from the lower gasket of the radiator cap will not seal and will not create vacuum (sucking of coolant from the reservoir) when your engine cools down. Mine was sprayed painted with a thin film of a VHT paint.
The above modification was made after I overhauled the 5K engine 4 years ago, and till now I haven't experienced any overheating problems, with or without the A/C on.
My Lite Ace 96 is suffering the same overheating problem. Can I ask how much will it cost, and where in Banawe sir?
Sir, can I ask much the modification will cost?
Sir, it's not advisable to use an oil flush.
Hi, it seems like this link is very helpful for all the LiteAce owners. This is the 1st time I logged into this site, but I had a great experience reading all the advice and tips indicated herein. Though I still have a problem; why is it that when I drive fast, the temperature goes down, and when I am stuck in the traffic temperature goes up? Do I need to have my radiator cleaned? The problem occurred a couple of days ago. My LiteAce model is 91. Thanks.
Do you have any clubs? If ever you have, can I join? By the way, I am Art.
Hello, I also have a 94 GXL. I bought it second hand, but I really love the van.
Changed the tie rod and rack end, then I also replaced the upper and lower suspension bushing. Now there is an undesirable sound again, so I'm planning to replace the ball joint...
I also modified my air conditioning system, removed the condenser near the radiator, and placed it in the middle of the vehicle. Well it works at first, no overheat, but now I'm planning to replace the head gasket, because the temperature is up when traffic is heavy, and also my mechanic suggests to reface it, hoping that it will work, but when I'm using it with no A/C, there is no problem with the temperature.
My small problem is the fuel consumption and the low power of the engine, but it is still fun to drive though...
Hello, am a firsthand owner of a Liteace '96 (P537T that time), and have not had problems with overheating. Yes, the temp will rise up to half when stuck in traffic with the aircon on (also when you force the engine too much just like when driving up the Marcos Hiway to Baguio - where I live), that's normal as there is lack of fresh air as when compared to hi-way drive. You will notice the thermal clutch of the cooling fan engage when it senses the radiator to be too hot. I always follow 24 months rule to change the coolant with original Toyota long life coolant red fluid - there's the ready premixed and the concentrate which needs a 1:1 mix ratio. Only use DISTILLED water for mixing (ABSOLUTE brand distilled drinking water will do, not the mineral type). When topping up the reservoir, just put the same coolant mix, not TAP water - or you're inviting corrosion and clogging in the cooling system.
Putting the correct Iridium spark plugs can extend next cleaning up to 2 years. I have modified the contact point ignition system to use with an Electronic Igniter (Toyota surplus from Malaysia) and I have not replaced contact point since year 2001.
Yes, 80 kph is the optimum speed for efficient fuel consumption. It can go 140kph, but gulps fuel, and is also unsafe because of the short wheel base - this could be one reason why Toyota just put a 5K engine in there, though a 7K EFI of the Tamaraw would have been more appropriate.
I have a Toyota LiteAce 2.0 litre DIESEL, but is overheating. When driving the radiator is cool, BUT the engine is hot. I need help.
Just to share something regarding my LiteAce. My LiteAce runs fine after an overhaul. No overheat. Strong engine, fuel efficient. I have no interest in reading a forum on how to maintain a LiteAce van. All of a sudden I experienced an overheating problem, and after that I started to read comments here regarding engine overheating.
Here are the causes.
Leak water pump.
Hole in the radiator hose.
Catalytic converter stuck.
My mechanic fix the problem, and it cost 4000 pesos, I'm so lucky because the piston rings are in good condition, no oil in spark plug etc...
I drive without overheating problems now. Just maintain the water level in the radiator, fan belts for clutch fan, fans for cooling and always check holes in the hose and radiator itself
I'm Jeff from Q.C.
I bought my '92 Lite Ace van from my uncle since he needed the money. At first I really hated it due to the problems, but there's a part of me telling to fix it rather than replace it with another van.
The cylinder head was needed re-phasing (at DYNAMICS machine shop in Scout. Alcaraz cor Mayon Q.C.). I also bought a new cylinder head gasket. Please note that when installing the cylinder gasket, ask your mechanic to use "gasket adhesive", it is like rugby. The adhesive did the trick to promote good/efficient water suction.
Also had the fan "fixed" in rotation with the pulley, and not freely moving, to provide more ventilation.
Change for new water pump was also needed.
New radiator cap.
Transferred the second condenser just right behind the driver's seat.
After consulting 7 aircon repair shops who told me that the compressor needs to replaced, I found a repair shop along Mindanao Ave who just overhauled my compressor, replaced its gaskets & oil and then... magic... cold A/C!
I had the carburetor cleaned and changed to jet 95 primary and 106 secondary.
Changed spark plugs with proper gaps and contact point.
CURRENT PROBLEMS and I NEED HELP...
1. Fuel consumption... it gulps gas as if there's no tomorrow. What can I do to make it fuel efficient?
2. Underpowered... especially when the A/C is on, the lack of power and torque is really noticeable. Any suggestions?
3. I also noticed every time I go for a car wash... when the front tires get sprayed with water... steam comes off as if it's a sizzling plate... I believe it's with the brakes, but my mechanic told me the brakes were just fine, but I'm still in doubt. I don't experience it with my car. Has anyone had the same experience?
With my van's fuel consumption and the price of gas today, I'm considering converting the engine to diesel, but I'm having second thoughts, for I have read in this thread that some 5k engines are able to run for 10-12km/liter.
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